London Fashion Week: J.W. Anderson & House of Holland

J.W. Anderson Autumn/Winter Collection 2016 Sourced:The Financial Times Ltd. http://on.ft.com/1RkpNNt

Saturday 20th February, marked the second day of the bi-annual event that is held in the capital and spirits were high. The start of the weekend played host to the phenomenal J.W. Anderson show and Anderson began the show with a quote from British designer David Hicks. “The excitement of today is in the freedom of the individual to make his own choices, and the range of possibilities for which he may choose.”

With a history for being very playful with aesthetics, he is know to be able to create the perfect balance between the delicate and the untameable. Saturday’s show definitely did not disappoint, being based on sixties styling with a touch of mod he managed to add a quirkiness to the traditional cocktail dress.

J.W. Anderson AW16 CREDIT: ISIDORE MONTAG
J.W. Anderson AW16 CREDIT: ISIDORE MONTAG

The colours were mainly earthy tones with flurries of monochromatic elements in the collection, Anderson interestingly chooses to incorporate block colouring with romantic patterns to give a bold eye-catching look. A popular style was the peplum and lots and lots of ruffles, the lines were very architectural but matched with simple accessories. The mixture of materials was a staring point in itself, with suede layerings with leathers, furs and occasionally lace, there was a sense of freedom and a lack of creative boundaries.

Current trends were also highlighted in the show with the use of satin bomber jackets, one being zipped up and tucked into a peplum skirt giving the impression of a top. There were also hints of the grunge trend seeping into the in collection with minor studding in place and there was a strong sense that the shirt dress is going to be coming back as popular as ever. While the whole collection together could appear slightly bizarre and intimidating, the single pieces are perfectly transitional on their own for a simpler look.

J.W. Anderson AW16 CREDIT: ISIDORE MONTAG
J.W. Anderson AW16 CREDIT: ISIDORE MONTAG

Another big show on Saturday was House of Holland, Holland has an amazing ability to portray a London styling but with such a savvy attitude. It was busy, being called ‘Backstage Flappers’ it always was going to be. There was a strong motif in his Autumn/Winter collection, mixing 1920s flapper girl-esque styling with 70s glam rock. An interesting mix but it made for terrific viewing, there was a great sense of vibrancy, with colourings, patterns and materials. The amount of beaded fringe could have rivalled the wardrobe department on The Great Gatsby set. We saw lavish pyjamas make their way down the runway with large abstract prints of Debbie Harry, Liza Minnelli and Cher that reminded me of a Sex Pistols shirt.

Image Source: IMAXTREE / Matteo Volta/www.matteovolta.com
Image Source: IMAXTREE / Matteo Volta/www.matteovolta.com
Saturday’s other shows included 1205, Barbara Casasola, Emilia Wickstead, Fashion East – Mimi Wade, Faustian Steinmetz, Gareth Pugh, Holly Fulton, Isa Arfen, Jasper Conran, Julien MacDonald, Markus Lupfer, Molly Goddard, Palmer//Harding, Shrimps, Sinling, Simone Rocha, Teatum Jones and Zandra Rhodes.

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